CLEAN DIY LENGTHS will need to be Pre-Drilled twice and installed by yourself into the concrete by using Sleeve Anchors, or you can ask a local friendly builder who like scones.

For Skilled DIY-ers

DRILLING

TOOLS NEEDED: You will need a Drill Hole Punch Marker for steel or similar, or a Sharpie Marker to mark out where you want to drill all the holes. You will need a 20mm Starret Hole Saw or large Drill Bit or similar from an engineer type shop (that’s a big 20mm one, double the size of normal! That’s about $25 last time I looked). You will also need a normal type drill that can drill at least a 20mm top hole and a standard 11mm bottom hole perfectly level/perpendicular through the top of angled 6mm Kerby™ extrusion (preferably a corded/powered style as battery styles take so long and are usually under-powered). I use a drill press to achieve this to get all the holes level and perfectly aligned and centred, otherwise it makes installation life a bit of extra admin putting it lightly.

METHOD: Firstly, on the top of the 6mm extrusion between the top two spaced out ribs, where the only grove is (as a guide), mark where you want all the holes to be along the length on that groove line, all spaced out as suggested (following this) with a Drill Hole Punch Marker or Sharpie Marker. The hole sets are normally 100mm from each end, then spaced out at every metre. EG: Hole configuration on a 4m length from the first end to the last end is: 100mm | 1000mm | 2000mm | 3000mm | 3900mm*.  *100mm in from the last end. Secondly, drill your top holes of 20mm with a hole saw or similar, and then a bottom hole of 11mm all the way through the bottom through the same centre line. Clean up as the Aluminium swarf and filings go absolutely everywhere! That’s a Health & Safety warning for your wife. It follows me into the house and is a nightmare to get it out the carpet! Trust me, you do not want that!

FIXING IN PLACE

TOOLS NEEDED: Fixing as per how many holes you will have in the total length(s). Only the best 316 Stainless Steel Sleeve Anchors are supplied as extras (additional cost) as standard, at a very special rate (cheaper than Bunnings or Mitre 10 etc) on the Quote. NB: If you are supplying the fixings yourself, do not use Plain Steel, Zinc Coated or Galvanised Sleeve Anchors as they react with the Aluminium and corrode and rust etc (weaken and move). If the length(s) move, they will continue to get worse and squeak and carry on each time someone drives over the installation. You will also need a 13mm tube socket for the Sleeve Anchors, with a diameter no more than 20mm to get through the 20mm top hole of the Kerby™ that you are going to drill out (these are about $50 last time I looked), and a Ratchet (these are also about $50 last time I looked). You will need a special “Hammer” type drill that vibrates and can drill at least a 10mm hole in the concrete (power or battery style) to a depth of 100mm-110mm. You will need a special 10mm 4-Tipped Concrete Drill Bit of at least 150mm long. This goes faster and better than a 10mm 2-Tipped version. These are normally $25 each last time I looked. You will need a 6mm-12mm Hammer Punch to hammer the Sleeve Anchors in place through the holes. These are about $60 last time I looked. You need a rag and something like Turps to clean up the surface of the KERBY™ to finish off. And water for you!

METHOD: Lay down the Clean length(s) where you want the ramp to be (according to the specifications drawing on this website below, to at least 30mm out from the edge of the kerb for water and leaf debris. This also makes for a better, softer angle.). Pre-Drill the 10mm concrete holes to about 10mm deep, to pre-mark out where you want the final concrete holes to be through the Pre-Drilled holes of the extrusion’s 20mm top holes and 11mm bottom holes. This marks out where you want the finished concrete holes to be, better than poking a Sharpie Marker through the holes from the top, the concrete destroys them! Move the lengths away again and finish drilling the 10mm concrete holes to a depth of at least 100mm-110mm deep. Remove dust and waste, a leaf blower works great! Lay the lengths back down again in place. Put the Sleeve Anchors in place through the top hole, through the bottom hole into the concrete. Hammer them all the way in with a Punch or similar until you hear a “ting!”, that’s when the washer touches the extrusion, then they are firmly all the way down and in place. You will need a 13mm tube socket with a diameter of 20mm or less to fit through the top hole to fix the 10mm Sleeve Anchors nuts onto the 11mm bottom holes into the 10mm concrete holes. Tighten them up slowly until slightly firm and they grip. Sometimes, you get one that doesn’t grip, I do not know why, by at this point I have to take it out and add an epoxy glue to make sure it stays in place, as to not weaken all the rest of the length(s). $10 from the Warehouse is fine and sets in 5-20 minutes, enough to tighten it up again as to just before gripping, then wait for the glue to go off (meantime keep reading…). Walk and jump along the ramp length to possibly jiggle it down further to suit the variable undulations (concrete is never perfectly flat!). Go back to the first Sleeve Anchor and firmly tighten them all up from there – not too tight – my socket does a “click” when I then know it’s ‘just right’! From firm to tight, then an extra quarter turn I find. Lastly, and the best bit, put all the Black Nylon Hole Covers in the 20mm top holes to make it look sexy. Wipe all the surfaces down to get rid of the grease. Job done! Ready to go! You will forget it’s there after a week or so. 

Usage

With CLEAN LENGTHS can also be used for wheel chocks for your classic car in the garage to stop you backing back or forward too much, caravan ramps, motorhome or trailer ramps, RV ramps, garden shed ramp for the mower etc. Great for your teenagers to learn how far to go into the garage to park the car the easy way. This way you feel when to stop. Looks way better too! A modern version of that old-stool tennis ball on a string hanging down from the ceiling that touches the wind screen that tells you when to stop.

*4m-A is the Standard Clean (no holes) Un-Cut whole standard Length of KERBY™ is as it comes supplied from the mill. The 4m-A can be cut down or added to to make all the various different configurations. The pricings are all based on using a 4m-A Length economically to eliminate waste.

FIXINGS & FINISHERS ARE ADDITIONAL

M10x50 316 Stainless Steel Sleeve-Anchors (Dynabolt fixings) to suit how many holes you have, can be supplied at a very special price of $8.00+GST each hole. At Mitre 10 or Bunnings, last time I looked were $20 for two! Nylon Dome Hole Covers (Black) to suit how many holes you have, can also be supplied at a very special price of $0.50+GST each hole. Both will be additionally added to the quote sent to you as standard, unless otherwise agreed upon.

NB: Aluminium prices fluctuate, so please bear with us if the prices go up again (it is out of our control). Freight/shipping and custom or ‘tricky’ installation costs vary and are additional. All prices are +GST and are subject to change. 

Please click here or the button below for the T&C’s for the all the different definitions, configurations and terms of the different types of installations.